6 juillet: Kroknes - Hamningberg - Vardø - Berlevåg

2722.5km en 141h09. Phrase du jour: "Fais-toi plaisir sans reporter au lendemain: le bonheur, c'est maintenant." Ce que j'en pense: ça, je le sais! J'essaie de profiter un maximum de ma longue journée (le soleil ne veut toujours pas se coucher). 

The beauty of the nature decided to continue to surprise me when I continued my way to Hamningberg: as described in the tourist guide the landscape is moony (or maybe not: I haven't been on the moon yet, so I can't make a comparison). Hamningberg itself is not soooo beautiful, but I enjoyed it during my lunch short before noon. When I'm looking back on my day, I think the reason why Hamningberg hasn't impressed is the following one: there was only one coffee in town and it was closed!
(Hamningberg)
Unfortunately, I had to came back on the same wonderful road, so I had to enjoy it again... but from the other side! And then it was clear for me, that it could not be a moony landscape! Why that? Logically, when you go in one direction, you see the one side of the moon, and when you go on the other direction, you should see the dark side of the moon, no? And there is no dark side on this landscape... Sorry!

But there was a dark place on my road: the tunnel leading to Vardø! It was not only dark, but also very cold, wet and stinky. It's good to know that Vardø is a city on an island and that there is no bridge going there, only this deep tunnel (-88m under see level and 2900m long). Going down is fast and very refreshing, cycling on the flat part is wet and finally going up on the other side is stinky and you juste want to get out of here! One more reason not to go to Nord Cap (about 9km long with much more traffic). But, there is one more but: as I entered the tunnel, it was starting to rain... and as I left it, it was no more raining. Isn't that nice?
(tunnel)
Well, then I was stocked on an island with only one issue possible. So I decided to visite the city by following the touristic path of the city (Church, the eastest stronghold of Europe, a monument for burned witches). The only problem was, that the path vanished in the nature and so I followed the main roads. 

Finally, when the rain started again, a Troll came and helped me to leave the island without taking that horrible tunnel. He was very kind with me as he left me at 23:00 on the coast near Berlevåg: a member of the ferry (yes, I took the famous Hurtigruten on the ferry called "Trollfjord") offered me some food (bread, meet and butter) for the evening. He was terribly anxious for me and wanted me to stay on the boat: he told me that 2 or 3 nights ago (when I slept in the rain- and windstorm close to Neiden), a German traveller died because of the icing night.
  (Hurtigruten)
The fjords of Norway are like the mountain is Switzerland: the weather can change very fast from one extreme to the other. I didn't knew it when I left home, but I saw it and understood it very fast when I traveled from Kirkenes to the Russian boarder (Grense Jakobselv) and back. Now I try to have always enough food with me to survive 2 days in case of bigger troubles. And I am glad to see that my stuff (tent, sleeping bag, clothes) is very good (except my raincoat, the one I near lost in Liepaja - LV, but I knew it already when I left home).
So I was very happy to see one more time how helpful people are up here in the north!